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1995 Silver Series IV Slicktop Version S - Taking To Another Level


phutumsch

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Wasn't sure if I could use these WinFactory bonnet struts on the new car with the fitting of the cruise control but after a bit of a fiddle I've got them working sweet, they hold the bonnet up a little higher than the bonnet stay which is a bonus.

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On 09/10/2021 at 21:37, phutumsch said:

This 1995 LWB car helped, bought very locally 3 years ago and provided the optional extra digital AC system and the late series keyless system, now at Banzai Breakers this one, served it's purpose for me, thank you.

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Keyless system??

[sIGPIC][/sIGPIC]

 

My Ride

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Keyless system is a factory optional extra on later cars, the remote locks and unlocks the doors with a little beep, there's also a button that turns on the cabin courtesy light and a button for which you press and hold for tailgate release.

It's basic but I like having this kind of thing.

After spending time at Jimmer's fitting it I can now confirm it is working as Nissan intended, very very pleasing.

These are the remote fobs I have for the system......

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One thing about having a LWB interior loom fit into my SWB is that I get a boot light, SWB cars do not have one, strange one I know.

Just had to cut a slot in the panel and find myself a bright cob bulb.

The other pic shows how bright my festoon courtesy light is and also the T10 boot light.

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I do have another brand new lit up facelift reverse light panel but this one is a little older and is illuminated differently, a bit brighter than the norm, almost brake light brightness.

No number plate because I have only just sent the paperwork off to Swansea to register this freshly imported car and you can only register once you have a valid MOT certificate in your hand.

And after mine and Jimmer's work, we got the MOT a few weeks ago.

I need to put in the swage line tape I know guys.

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Edited by phutumsch
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56 minutes ago, phutumsch said:

Keyless system is a factory optional extra on later cars, the remote locks and unlocks the doors with a little beep, there's also a button that turns on the cabin courtesy light and a button for which you press and hold for tailgate release.

It's basic but I like having this kind of thing.

After spending time at Jimmer's fitting it I can now confirm it is working as Nissan intended, very very pleasing.

These are the remote fobs I have for the system......

IMG_0472.jpg

That's very cool! Thanks for the explanation!

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12 hours ago, phutumsch said:

Keyless system is a factory optional extra on later cars, the remote locks and unlocks the doors with a little beep, there's also a button that turns on the cabin courtesy light and a button for which you press and hold for tailgate release.

It's basic but I like having this kind of thing.

After spending time at Jimmer's fitting it I can now confirm it is working as Nissan intended, very very pleasing.

These are the remote fobs I have for the system......

IMG_0472.jpg

This is on my list to sort on my car. It's had it from factory but a previous owner removed bits and bobs of it. I've sourced a controller but need to hunt down some fobs. And then deal with the bast******d wiring on a botched alarm install by a previous owner. 

Zed #2: 1998 Midnight Purple 2+2 NA. (owned 2020 - now) 

Zed #1: 1995 Blue Slicktop NA (2013-2015)

 

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Nice work Andy 👍 that engine bay is looking fresh too 

The time at jimmers was well spent migrating everything over buddy 👍

its the little attention to details that counts 

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1 hour ago, Lexx said:

This is on my list to sort on my car. It's had it from factory but a previous owner removed bits and bobs of it. I've sourced a controller but need to hunt down some fobs. And then deal with the bast******d wiring on a botched alarm install by a previous owner. 

The keyless entry/exit system and a Toad alarm both worked in harmony on the white 95 LWB donor car, also a 2 relay 10 wire mirror closing 'system'.

You can imagine the amount of wiring that was grafted onto the factory loom, was all well done though actually.

Once this complete loom was removed and 'on the bench', I set to and removed everything aftermarket, soldering, bridging back up wires, and this was time well spent, start a fresh, yes I've now not got an alarm but it is something I can add at a later date if I desire.

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To give you some idea of the task, all this is ripped out of the white LWB donor I had and fit or wrestled with rather into the SWB.

The loom on the left is all along the dash and then down the centre of the car, the right one plugs into it at the drivers fusebox and this feeds the rear of the car and into the tailgate.

All this to go from a manual aircon pod to the desirable series 2 onwards digital aircon. 

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Lets talk about the nose panel, there is no top seal for the bonnet to panel shut line on the later cars, just mould blanks where the holes should be and with a 6mm nut bonded on the back.

I happen to have this seal so I set about fitting it, I drilled holes where Nissan did but I wasn't happy and so I made these holes more slotted or tolerant, thus allowing the seal to sit further up.

Factory bolt and a factory large washer nut was used to hold it all together.

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I have the WinFactory bonnet struts but I have a chromed bonnet stay, so another task today was getting this fit.

Firstly, I fit a new Nissan grommet in the hole near the coolant overflow filler, how often are these missing or just very worn and sloppy !!

I then needed a way to hold it down securely, so found an engine throttle cable holder and used that, then fixed a new plastic catch.

Bonnet stay holds the bonnet lower than the struts, so I have options.

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I could have bought new scuttles but I have 2 complete pairs, so on a warm day I cleaned and sprayed satin black.

Cleaned the area, spraying GT85 everywhere and then carefully fit with mostly new clips.

I also fit new bonnet hinge covers you may notice, these are often broken, that's if people even know about them !!

I'm purchasing 2 x 21" wipers today btw.

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21 hours ago, phutumsch said:

I also fit new bonnet hinge covers you may notice, these are often broken, that's if people even know about them !!

I'm purchasing 2 x 21" wipers today btw.

Looking nice and clean 😎. You're not the only one who notices! Mine are all faded and cracked to pieces; bought a set which will be fitted soon. I found Bosch Aeroblade wipers from Halfrauds to be absolutely fantastic and perfect fitment.  

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Try and ignore a lot on this video as this was taken many years ago and things are long gone, much more simpler and factory approach these days.

However, I have kept the side markers, rather than take another video I'm being lazy and showing this, installed today and they are solid red on with the side lights and then flash when you indicate, then after a second or so come back solid red.

 

 

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My intercoolers are massive, Jim fit some series 1 indicators to get the car through the MOT and even then had to relocate the bulb holder.

Series 2 indicators are the only ones to have but do not fit much larger ic's without some modification, you can see how much they are fouling and that is without the actual bulb and holder in, adding even more depth, not a chance !!

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First job is get them in the oven and remove the lenses. Then slice off the kerb light bulb holder, I used my dremel type tool, then locate it next to the indicator holder. Just tack it on for now with some hot glue.

If you don't want or have kerb lights, think it's a JDM thing, you may want to locate side lights to this position, so you can still proceed with this mod.

IMG_0525.thumb.jpg.2e7ca43a3566ec441f0f7ed3d731d154.jpg

Looking through the new position holder drill a pilot hole in the dead centre, I found this drill attachment worked well.IMG_0532.thumb.jpg.80fc2560bdc4237ef8981e48f5439bff.jpg

You need to drill out an opening plenty large enough to fit the standard bulb and it'll end up looking like this. Put some tape over the old hole, like here.

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I'm going to use the cob bulbs you see in this next pic, orange for the signal and white for the kerb light, use standard filament bulbs if you prefer, both clear shown here, you may have the amber deflector, if you have removed, like I have you'll have to use an orange filament bulb.

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I used lots of black silicone, not just to hold the new bulb holder location but to stop any light bleed.

Fit the lenses after applying some heat and job done.

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I put halo's in my headlights many many years ago, Jim transferred the headlights from my old car into my new one without wiring the halos in, there was no need at this stage.

Having now got the car back on my drive I can do jobs like this, half expecting the halo's not to work and having in mind that I'll be fitting standard headlights in their place, I quickly tested and they worked perfectly !!!

My mind was then made up to keep the halo's and these I'll use has my side lights, so I linked them up with some new cable which you can see loose for now.

I've removed the T10 side light JDM bulbs from the front fogs, I am not even going to take out the standard fog light bulbs, I know they're a bit yellow in comparison but these days I am not bothered about this kind of thing !!

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I have loads of sets of new HID lights but these were in when the car came over from Japan and as long as they continue to be 100% reliable, I will stick with them as the ballasts seem robustly made, the colour looks about right at 4500K somewhere methinks.

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1 hour ago, phutumsch said:

My intercoolers are massive, Jim fit some series 1 indicators to get the car through the MOT and even then had to relocate the bulb holder.

Series 2 indicators are the only ones to have but do not fit much larger ic's without some modification, you can see how much they are fouling and that is without the actual bulb and holder in, adding even more depth, not a chance !!

IMG_0524.thumb.jpg.5b20336bdc28c0480c89cbe243df58da.jpg

First job is get them in the oven and remove the lenses. Then slice off the kerb light bulb holder, I used my dremel type tool, then locate it next to the indicator holder. Just tack it on for now with some hot glue.

If you don't want or have kerb lights, think it's a JDM thing, you may want to locate side lights to this position, so you can still proceed with this mod.

IMG_0525.thumb.jpg.2e7ca43a3566ec441f0f7ed3d731d154.jpg

Looking through the new position holder drill a pilot hole in the dead centre, I found this drill attachment worked well.IMG_0532.thumb.jpg.80fc2560bdc4237ef8981e48f5439bff.jpg

You need to drill out an opening plenty large enough to fit the standard bulb and it'll end up looking like this. Put some tape over the old hole, like here.

IMG_0534.thumb.jpg.6db505fb9fc683f6a61a904d2952dbf6.jpg

I'm going to use the cob bulbs you see in this next pic, orange for the signal and white for the kerb light, use standard filament bulbs if you prefer, both clear shown here, you may have the amber deflector, if you have removed, like I have you'll have to use an orange filament bulb.

IMG_0535.thumb.jpg.b527377334c98a1dbe28534bbb91b002.jpg

I used lots of black silicone, not just to hold the new bulb holder location but to stop any light bleed.

Fit the lenses after applying some heat and job done.

IMG_0536.thumb.jpg.25520c62c273dd2157760991ae2890f4.jpg

that's a lot of work.... should have just cut a hole in the intercooler to fit the bulb holder and back of lights..... 😆

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1990 Black MT NA LWB = 2014 - 2020 (Sold)

1991 Red MT TT LWB = 2015 - 2017 (Stripped & Scrapped)

1991 Red MT TT LWB = 2017 - 2021 (Sold)

1991 Black MT TT LWB = 2018 - 2021 (Sold)

1989 Red AT TT LWB = 2021 - XXXX (Kept)

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