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1995 Silver Series IV Slicktop Version S - Taking To Another Level


phutumsch

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Lenses off one and on the modified backs, tomorrow this job 👍.

And a rear shot, taken just now at dusk.

Forgot to add, I have the black decal strip to go on yet under the spoiler.

 

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Edited by phutumsch
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A 2019 Import - Pretty Much All Done 🙂.

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23 hours ago, Funkysi said:

Ditch the halos! 🙂

I was about to !! The headlights have been hanging around for years, unused, thrown about even but I do not like the fog side light position and having wanted the factory kerb lights/indicators I couldn't fix the side lights to the sides either.

You may not believe it's possible but the halo's do actually look better in real life, they're staying.

You can see how much I've thrown across the bulb in the below pic, so no fouling on the intercooler.IMG_0550.thumb.jpg.66778b997fab7ccbe47962d6867195ff.jpg

These are the units I took the lenses from, I know there are different types of series 2 indicators, you'll notice these are not fully chromed, this will now live on the shelf.IMG_0561.thumb.jpg.c812d96be1aa11aab2b48872cf2ff346.jpg

And here we are, kerb light on, shining more out onto the side and of course only comes on with the indicator, low beam needs to be on also.

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And because I have used led/cob/smd bulbs I have fast flash, so my fast flash relay is installed again, this goes above the accelerator pedal if you didn't know, I have it just tied alongside the factory relay.

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Edited by phutumsch
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1 hour ago, Gaz 300 said:

Strange seeing the indicator on the front and the kerb light on the side Andy but this is a unique personal Z. 👍

Not strange Gaz, this is all factory positions, just plug the 3 pin plug in the indicator 2 bulb loom, the only thing on the front I've done different is using halo's has my side lights.

Working on my locks atm, I did the boot lock and the drivers door whilst at Jimmer's a few weeks back, migrated from the '94 into my '95, now moved onto the ignition, all these barrels I want matching to my titanium key and valet key, etc.

The titanium key was discontinued in 1994 but I have one of the Aruba copied keys which now command silly money.IMG_0564.thumb.jpg.07f85c60c43bb8e6126b290420653fda.jpg

 

A 2019 Import - Pretty Much All Done 🙂.

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This was the car at Jimmer's when I was there a few weeks ago, I spent 5 whole days  there working on it, basically getting it MOT ready, this was as far as I got.

It is now on my drive, plenty more to do yet.

 

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On 09/10/2021 at 21:46, phutumsch said:

You may notice the cruise control actuator, this is a work in progress and is being retro fitted, more on that later.

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Well I promised an update on retro fitting the cruise control into a series 4 car that the owner from new didn't choose it as an optional extra.

Always had the cruise switch at the pod and then I bought the cruise stalk, these did nothing only turn on the cruise control light in the cluster, this because I had nothing else.

The interior loom I migrated from the 95 LWB into my 95 SWB had all the pedal plugs, I just needed to source the pedals with the full compliment of switches on them, did that from Baz about a year ago, that's 2 switches on the brake and 2 on the clutch.

Final thing, the engine bay cable actuator unit, no plug on the bay loom, so I put one in and ran its cable to the ASCD control unit in the passenger footwell.

Today I marked up with the corresponding coloured tape which matched the 4 wire cable you can see, just to avoid any errors, you can see I made notes probably over a year ago with regard this project.

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Then soldered on.

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Then tidied up, I have no reason to believe that the cruise control will not work, everything is there now, just that I cannot test atm, no insurance, no map, too many speed humps, etc, sadly but the day will come.

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Another job today was do the diode HID light mod again, I had this on the previous car.

So it involves a relay, there is a How-To on this btw on this very site.

Located it here this time near the battery, again it's the waterproof type...

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Now if you didn't know, people will tell you to just ground the negative side of the low beam connector, this will STOP the low beam/HID turning off when you switch to high beam/flash and then when you turn off high beam/flash the HID comes back, so a lot of switching is going on but the way Nissan intended.

The downside to this 'lazy' modification is when you flash during daytime when your low beam is off/not required, it will energise your HID lights briefly, now we know the HID's take a while to warm up anyway so this is a pointless exercise and is debatable whether it does the ballasts any good, not costly though these days I know. My diode mod just powers up the high beam when you flash, so leaves the HID's 'sleeping'.

Still for the diode mod you still need to connect one wire at the negative side of the low beam and goes to the relay, seen below.

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A 2019 Import - Pretty Much All Done 🙂.

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The front fog light 55w H3 bulbs are a little on the yellow side, so I changed to whiter ones, 5000k if I remember correctly.

The factory bulbs come with male bullet connectors and the ones you buy they are a 6.3mm spade, I don't butcher anymore and so made a short braided lead for each, adapting from spade to bullet.

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Loads of factory sheaths on everything, gets very warm.

I also dug out matching 501 bulbs for the side lights, so I have these as well as my much loved halo lights !!

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  • 2 weeks later...

I've been fitting a Pioneer head unit which is completed, more on this for another day, this has reverse camera, Sat Nav, CarPlay, Bluetooth, everything actually.

Having purchased a USB/Aux extender/socket many years ago, I realised that this will work very well in the cubby with the head unit having both sockets in its rear, giving me mainly a phone charger and an extra auxiliary jack to jack for whatever.

Tried to make it as factory as possible and even put some carpet up the back !

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 With the leads all ready for iphone connection and if need be the auxiliary 3.5mm jack for another device.

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On refitting don't forget these screw covers that nobody will have 😛.

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All this gearstick panel, like a lot of things from my first 94 slicktop was migrated into the new 95, I lit up the mirror control as you can see in red years and years ago.

It was never my intention to hook it up into the light circuit this time but after I looked at it and thought it's a simple job, the ashtray light is right there, it'll be tidy, so I did it.

Glad I did actually, my all theme is red or blue btw around the cabin.

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  • 4 weeks later...

Horn covers, another item I've had for quite a while, with the aftermarket Z1 horns I wasn't sure if they would go on but they do.

These are the factory threaded holes.

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So I found some factory bolts and here they are fit, sure they'll offer some protection from the elements.

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  • 3 weeks later...

This was me then earlier this week fitting the front bumper, I had 3 cars but this is the only turbo one I had.

Brand new under tray, I've tub after tub of factory bolts and also a very good collection of fasteners, so everything is where it should be, bumper went back very well actually.

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The last owner in Japan must have found and fit some facelift spec window switches, they plug into the earlier plugs with a sub loom of black wires, see pic where one wire had fallen out actually, of course that pin now is fixed.

The window lift relay in the drivers door is not used.

You can see the passenger switch differences where I have them side by side.

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I got these door mirrors off an Infinity I think from a USA seller many years ago, think I remember I had to sand slightly on the edges to get them the exact size.

They are blue as you can see, the livery being USA spec is now on the drivers side but this doesn't bother me one bit.

You can see they are the heated type as well, warm up when the HRW switch is on, if you didn't know.

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I have the keyless series 4 onwards option, slight differences in the door locks you may notice, fiddle to say the least to fit but all done now.

Whilst there I fit my metal quadrants instead of the plastic ones for the lock barrel mechanism, barrel also swapped to my titanium key, that now matches the boot, ignition, etc.

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My last car was fit with LWB spats, meaning the rears were not as chunky as the proper SWB and fitment was just not as it should have been, front spats are the same on all variants fyi.

I was incredibly lucky to acquire these SWB ones, again many years ago, they were untouched black which I did offer up to the car but I believe they need to be body coloured, so they were hung up and sprayed.

Picture showing the rear view and a side on view, I think they bring the car down, I love them.

Again, all factory located screw in points and some 3M double sided tape applied where necessary as Nissan did.

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It took me 10 or so years to have my low fuel light work, there's a thread on this somewhere, so this new import I wasn't sure if it worked or not and with it not being used and too much fuel in the tank, I just needed to do this today.

Jim fit an uprated fuel pump in the build, this goes in the left chamber, in fact that's where the thermistor is that makes the low fuel light come on when it's exposed out of the fuel.216B01F9-E7C3-4BA2-BB4A-12E1AA768CD8.thumb.JPG.890a801df31ea0194e4b4b2c42115a6a.JPG

I needn't have bothered because simulating low fuel with the floats, the dash light came on but it's another job ticked off.

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Whilst there I fit all new 12mm spring clips in both chambers.

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Having fit a brand new front undertray, this new import of mine was equipped with the rear engine undertray, it is made of fibre and certainly wasn't present on my previous car, so I cleaned it up.

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I'm missing the flap but I have an old plastic front undertray and I'll make up a piece from that.

I believe these can be still bought, mine does have a crack and is far from perfect, so I'll be mindful of that but for the time being I'm happy with this.

Again, all factory bolts with the odd penny washer.

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