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Radiator cross member replacement, day one.


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Just an update with regards to my pursuit for some sort of recompense reference the faulty Cross-Member issue.

Sadly, my efforts have all been in vain I'm afraid, and going by some of the comments made by the vendor, I am not surprised realy.

So, after some very good advice from some very eminent members, I feel that it is in the interest of all members that I disclose the source of the Item so as to help anyone else contemplating the same repair.

 

With truly the best intentions, the vendor was.... Concept Z Performance. (USA)

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Cheers mate, love the banter by the way.

 

Made a little more progress this morning, not much mind.

Cleaning everything up the best I can takes an age.

 

How the hell did you get the ac pipes to undo !! seems all the cars i get in they are seized and strip the threads off even with heat !! Be having you down to do all mine soon,nice job by the way fella :thumbup:

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I thought the CZP link you put up when you were contemplating buying new was a giveaway regarding the vendor! [emoji13] A real shame that you didn't get anywhere with the claim and also disappointing that Coz hasn't looked after you as I've had all positive dealings with them to date, even when things have gone wrong.

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How the hell did you get the ac pipes to undo !! seems all the cars i get in they are seized and strip the threads off even with heat !! Be having you down to do all mine soon,nice job by the way fella :thumbup:

 

From what you say mate, I must have been so lucky, not one difficult connection throughout.

No wonder it wouldn't hold refrigerant.

If the opportunity arose, I would gladly help with yours.

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I thought the CZP link you put up when you were contemplating buying new was a giveaway regarding the vendor! [emoji13] A real shame that you didn't get anywhere with the claim and also disappointing that Coz hasn't looked after you as I've had all positive dealings with them to date, even when things have gone wrong.

 

I know what you mean Joel, I was shocked to say the least considering I have been purchasing from Coz for the best part of 10 years.

Gob smacked.

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Makes me think twice about who I order parts from now.......

 

I know what you mean Russ, the last thing I want to do is smear anyone, it's just that after some sound advice I felt it prudent to be open.

I too am left in some doubt as to whether to continuing trading, I guess we are all open to trip ups I suppose.

To err is human....

Having said that though, I will be looking at alternative vendors, maybe worth a sticky list?

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I know it must be a sore wound at the moment, but at the end of the day no company is perfect and someone somewhere will always have a bad experience with every company out there. If you've had 10 years of good service from them with only one incident, that's not a bad track record really. I can't say I found CZP overly helpful when I ordered from them, didn't even read my emails properly. Not going to stop me ordering from them in the future though, you can't win them all!

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Not having driven her much since replacing the front cross member, I decided to take her out for an hour or so just to see if the repair had made any difference.

I can honestly say, that after some spirited driving through some challenging country roads, the front end felt very much improved, it just felt so much more positive.

All of my pulling to the left has gone and under heavy braking virtually all of my wheel wobble has disappeared. ( I think I maybe in need of some new track rod ends.)

I can even feel the change of road camber through the steering wheel instead of her always pulling left.

 

Chuffed to bits to say the least.

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Not having driven her much since replacing the front cross member, I decided to take her out for an hour or so just to see if the repair had made any difference.

I can honestly say, that after some spirited driving through some challenging country roads, the front end felt very much improved, it just felt so much more positive.

All of my pulling to the left has gone and under heavy braking virtually all of my wheel wobble has disappeared. ( I think I maybe in need of some new track rod ends.)

I can even feel the change of road camber through the steering wheel instead of her always pulling left.

 

Chuffed to bits to say the least.

 

That's great news mate.

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  • 3 years later...

What an epic post! Thank you for linking this to me, it’s given me a boost of confidence for my job (which isn’t in the same league as this). I really liked your first posts, they sounded just like some of mine. :confused1:

 

If it’s ok with you, rather than mess your post up with my questions, I’ll pm you questions I have regarding the strip down.

 

Well done, great job! :thumbup:

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What an epic post! Thank you for linking this to me, it’s given me a boost of confidence for my job (which isn’t in the same league as this). I really liked your first posts, they sounded just like some of mine. :confused1:

 

If it’s ok with you, rather than mess your post up with my questions, I’ll pm you questions I have regarding the strip down.

 

Well done, great job! :thumbup:

 

Your questions might help members in the future with similar queries?

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Well then I have four questions.

 

Is the coolant rad easy to drain, remove, refit and bleed? I looked for a “How to” but couldn’t find one.

 

How did you remove the AC condenser? I loath to do it as it was replaced last year by Jim and it proved to be a real ball ache for him. (Hopefully a lot easier now all the connections have recently been played with)

 

Did you keep the PS cooler in place or did you remove it from the pipe work? If you removed it how did you bleed it?

 

How did you get on with the oil in the oil cooler, did you flush it through and refill before refitting? Was there bleeding issues as you were worried the oil wasn’t circulating?

 

Cheers,

Chris.

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What an epic post! Thank you for linking this to me, it’s given me a boost of confidence for my job (which isn’t in the same league as this). I really liked your first posts, they sounded just like some of mine. :confused1:

 

If it’s ok with you, rather than mess your post up with my questions, I’ll pm you questions I have regarding the strip down.

 

Well done, great job! :thumbup:

 

Thanks buddy..

Hey, no worries about messing up my thread.

As Joel has said, it will further go to help other like minded members.

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Well then I have four questions.

 

Is the coolant rad easy to drain, remove, refit and bleed? I looked for a “How to” but couldn’t find one.

 

How did you remove the AC condenser? I loath to do it as it was replaced last year by Jim and it proved to be a real ball ache for him. (Hopefully a lot easier now all the connections have recently been played with)

 

Did you keep the PS cooler in place or did you remove it from the pipe work? If you removed it how did you bleed it?

 

How did you get on with the oil in the oil cooler, did you flush it through and refill before refitting? Was there bleeding issues as you were worried the oil wasn’t circulating?

 

Cheers,

Chris.

 

With regards to draining the coolant, it's quite straight forward really.

Firstly, remove the rad cap and then from underneath the car release/unscrew the drain tube.

You may have to remove it altogether as some become blocked.

Job done.

 

As for the condenser, are you sure you need to?

A lot of work for little gain if I recall correctly.

 

The power steering rad I left in place as I was more interested it the crossmember to be honest.

 

As for the oil cooler? I drained and cleaned it out and put the same volume of new oil back in.

 

If you need anything further, do not hesitate to ask.

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I’m looking at removing the condenser to be able to get those pesky metal intake pipes out. If you’re telling me that I shouldn’t need to then that’s great. :thumbup:

 

My memory is a little hazy, as my main aim was to get at the cross member, but I would consider leaving the rad in for the moment.

I think if I recall correctly, to remove the steel pipework completely you will have to remove the front torsion bars so as to allow them to drop down with the rad in place.

Hopefully with the rad in place you will still be able to get to all of those fiddly connections.

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