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Right, thought I'd start this. As some of you may know my cars a bit broken at present and I have a pile of parts ready to fit that gets bigger without it making its way to the car.

 

So lets start with what's up with the engine. Myself and gaz pulled the engine about two winters ago now, as one of the turbo's had failed. Compression was tested at this time with a very even 170psi across the board. Pulling it all apart we found a multitude of issues, egr hanging off causing an exhaust leak old sockets rolling about etc etc. We took that time to replace every damn crusty water and vac pipe and delete just about anything I considered a waste of space.

Water plenum bypass,

EGR,

AIV,

PRV,

Cruise control,

Aircon,

Think that's all. The turbos were rebuild by myself and for the first 50-100 miles things were bob on and I didn't give it too much stick. The first couple of pulls it detonated, new plugs, reduced the issue but it still did it a bit. Changed to a smaller gap and great the det was gone. The car was pulling very well at this point with virtually no lag and was dyno'd at 289hp bone stock, no extra boost no chip. Not bad for an old auto engine. Sadly it had started to smoke on over run, I assumed id cocked up one of the turbos during the rebuild. So I had been putting it off for months, well actually years now to pay out for brand new turbos. Anyways as the tax ran out I thought id do some more inspecting as the symptoms just didn't fit the pattern of failed turbos. The first thing I found was that lovely even compression was no more, cyl had a rather lame 115psi. Cue further inspection to work out exactly what block I had, manual/auto etc I assumed it was auto. That's when I found this...

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That head casting reads R-10Y, wtf is that I thought. It's supposed to read 40P this was one of those penny drop moments. The piston crown sealed that moment of realisation and many dots connected.

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That's right its an NA, 30p pistons are NA and 30p1 are TT defiantly no 1 on that code. Turns out r-10y is the later spec NA head aswell, so yeas 100% an NA block. Now this engine was fitted by a garage 4 years ago a few months into my ownership and we wont go into that too much but it wasn't a great experience and it transpires it was worse than I first thought. Anyway whilst they refused to reimburse me for that error, a good will gesture was sent out to me in the post of a few quid.

So a replacement engine is going to be sourced and fitted this winter. More of that and what's happening to the current late spec NA block.

 

So now more about that shelf of parts. I purchased last winter a full rear subframe assembly off Jaffa, the one off his time attack car. Loads of goodies already polybushed to death etc. So I stripped it down to bare metal and started painting it all with a few coats of lovely hammerite. This is how it stands at present;

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So this winters aims are.

Remove front and rear bumpers, re underseal all of that and rip out and guff.

Delete HICAS system

Reloacte PS reservoir and fusebox

Switch over all suspension to new units from the shelf

Fit 354mm diameter brembos

Change engine out and preform various mods

It sounds like a lot, but hey winter is along time. Don't expect it to be coming through thick and fast. Im lazy haha

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After a bit of faff about with the battery which was a Covid victim we got to the MOT station. Happy to report a pass. The guy was pretty intense on it and I picked up some minors. He was fair th

So after a very long, dry, safe and cosy sleep since the beginning of this global pandemic she’s waiting for an MOT. 

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Under the nose pannel bud :) out the way, I want as much space round that engine bay as possible for maintaince.

 

- - - Updated - - -

 

Get some thick board down or some slabs temporarily for the project!

 

- - - Updated - - -

 

Would offer you my garage bud but I have problems of my own lol

 

:lol: cheers bud, I'm well aware of your problems.

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.........Changed to a smaller gap and great the det was gone....

 

The det would have still been there, unfortunately.

 

Amazing the engine held up for the length of time it did :bow:

Edited by Noz
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It was terrible at first, you got to about 3.5k and it was like a rev limiter came on, crackling and missing. I think it got damaged quite quickly and the way I drive it at times well yeah. Onwards and upwards. Hopefully there will be enough left in the budget for you to tweak the new set up.

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It was terrible at first, you got to about 3.5k and it was like a rev limiter came on, crackling and missing. I think it got damaged quite quickly and the way I drive it at times well yeah. Onwards and upwards. Hopefully there will be enough left in the budget for you to tweak the new set up.

 

I don't do "tweaks" :laugh:

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It was terrible at first, you got to about 3.5k and it was like a rev limiter came on, crackling and missing. I think it got damaged quite quickly and the way I drive it at times well yeah. Onwards and upwards. Hopefully there will be enough left in the budget for you to tweak the new set up.

 

Oh dear, my car is doing exactly this! I hoped it was water ingestion as it has been a bloody tempest up here with a lot of spray.

 

A definite crackle if you rev it to 3.5 on over run in neutral, that or blowing out the plugs as it was like a rev limiter! I very very carefully gapped my new BCR8ES to what Noz said in another post which I think was 0.9!

 

Oh dear.

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Oh dear, my car is doing exactly this! I hoped it was water ingestion as it has been a bloody tempest up here with a lot of spray.

 

A definite crackle if you rev it to 3.5 on over run in neutral, that or blowing out the plugs as it was like a rev limiter! I very very carefully gapped my new BCR8ES to what Noz said in another post which I think was 0.9!

 

Oh dear.

 

Mine wasn't doing it in neutral or even if you were gentle and progressive just on hard acceleration.

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Hmm, mine has a noise like gravel flicking up your arches, or someone opening a bag of crisps, in neutral at 3500 or in gear at light throttle around that rpm. It hits a wall at about the same rpm or 3/4psi. But it is intermittent???

 

Don't mean to hijack your thread steve, once I get it worked out I will update my ancillaries in a month thread.

 

Im gonna reduce my spark gaps a bit. Buy a timing light (even though the nissan datascan reads 15 btdc) and see if I can check my bores while I am at it. Might put some sort of fuel cleaner throhgh as I had the tank totally drained for a while, it may have water vapour in there, and I will dry my MAFs.

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Pretty much yeah...I aim to keep things functional at heart so simply running without isn't the best option. I've thought about have a can of tyre weld in the boot but it's crappy stuff if you've ever used it. So I was thinking about using the space saver from a 350/370 as they come with big brakes anyways. Weight reduction is a big subject and I'm making life difficult by not going hole heartedly into it, it's not a racecar so things like carpet and actual functional windows etc will be retained.

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Pretty much yeah...I aim to keep things functional at heart so simply running without isn't the best option. I've thought about have a can of tyre weld in the boot but it's crappy stuff if you've ever used it. So I was thinking about using the space saver from a 350/370 as they come with big brakes anyways. Weight reduction is a big subject and I'm making life difficult by not going hole heartedly into it, it's not a racecar so things like carpet and actual functional windows etc will be retained.

 

think he was referring to the bicycle wheel :)

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Right so I've been doing 5 minutes here and there when I can between the rain and cold and work both my day job and the house. Getting it off the floor a suitable height was a bloody nightmare, gravel an unlevel surface and various other working condition hinderances, it even fell off the stands at one point(don't worry I wasn't even remotely under it) but yeah.

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The first picture creates the optical illusion it's way off level then the second you realise how irratating that slight slope is. Since I took this pic I've flipped one of the ramps 180 so it can't roll up or down, and wombled (translation; borrorewd on a virtually perminent basis) a set of 6 tonne ratchet stands, making a total of toe ramps and six axel stands. The rear subframe is free to be accessed for removal. I took a picture at this point to show what condition things are in now to refer back to, a proper then and now scenario. Ignore the sill, it looked off so I hit it with a grinder and covered it in red oxide till I can come back to it.

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Edited by Stephen
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Meanwhile in the shed, I've been tarting up the bits to bolt on. The front shocks, cusco ones which came from an R33 have been cleaned up and painted mated with some new old stock z32 specific apex pillowball top mounts and just require some 2.5" springs to complete. I'd decided on a 6k-8k ratio so the rears will be changed at the same time, as I don't know what those lap rings are rated for, I pilfered them off a skyline. Total cost for height adjustable coilovers minus springs £110 so far.

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I also pulled the diff cover off checked it all out for anything obviously nasty, cleaned up a bit if gundge and replaced the slightly chewed fill plug. New gasket and a lick of hammerite, I did start to prep the diff cover for polishing at which point I took myself to one side and bucked my ideas up. So here's the diff ready for fluids and fitting. I plan to assemble the rear sub on the car as the diff alone has a small moon floating round it, it's got to weigh 40kg which for a football sized hollow chunk of cast full of cogs is heavy. Assembling it seperatly will likely be more time consuming but lining up the frame etc will be a damn sitè easier.

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There's a cardboard box sat here getting fuller and fuller ready to go to the shot blasters and it's looking like I've got an engine to transplant but more on that all next time...

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