Jump to content

Project UK rewind


Chris300

Recommended Posts

I finished of the light refurb today and bolted on the newly powder coated tin work and plated screws. They’re not perfect, I would like to have split them and rechromed the internals but that will have to wait.

Hope you like the before and after pics...

F7379511-8713-4ACC-A538-F5C6AE78A545.thumb.jpeg.8791ed8235df4a643d0620e9b4d13ed7.jpeg

1961A27F-1D03-4DC8-9D24-078D51DB15CA.thumb.jpeg.1932378e1c5ebcc33d3a88d18328df89.jpeg

8C789FF4-E6AE-40D1-8949-1F8FE796BCFC.thumb.jpeg.30d21fd69a8f13a819ca4fbc920ad011.jpeg

A032AE18-42E1-4810-B7A1-469EFC093043.thumb.jpeg.095a47af9356b387a4e892f7f9257cd7.jpeg

10049CD8-D225-4B08-B10C-E6CD2B76CEFD.thumb.jpeg.ece80ef4afa9de06e4939d4e7f5b4408.jpeg

B1BD5E94-B127-48E5-868D-5BFA64840F48.thumb.jpeg.466b153f9482b2d53e76a91dceaa4beb.jpegFF668375-2736-4C70-B0CA-02FA8FD8103D.thumb.jpeg.bc20e6f2aa6fd16085ca668d335010c1.jpeg

3E30350F-E144-4A16-9BE8-89AA75AB50C2.thumb.jpeg.583791470b36fdabfb03972c7543ac7d.jpeg

91A94B4D-EA56-4DC8-870B-C9A170516285.jpeg

CA6E2DC1-D0A8-47CD-B30A-6F8F3ACEED1D.jpeg

44CEA36A-720E-42F1-9AE6-6C2DE083E6AE.jpeg

  • Like 3
  • Love 2
Link to comment
Share on other sites

47 minutes ago, naz27 said:

They look brand new so well done! Great job! I’ve gotten inspired by this thread where you’ve refurbed the nuts and bolts in the engine bay - want to start this soon. Will make a huge difference.

Great news, that’s what the forums all about. What I would suggest is that you pick a small area and work your way around the engine. I had a plan and didn’t stick to it and almost became very lost. And don’t forget to start a journal. ??

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

23 hours ago, Chris300 said:

Great news, that’s what the forums all about. What I would suggest is that you pick a small area and work your way around the engine. I had a plan and didn’t stick to it and almost became very lost. And don’t forget to start a journal. ??

Thanks for the wise advice! Yes I can imagine you could get so carried away with intricate jobs like these. Looking forward to starting mine soon; I only really need to replace screws and washers as most other bits in my engine bay were kept super clean by previous owners thankfully. Doing other bits and bobs in the mean time though and yeah I started my little thread about a month ago. I called it "300zx TT - My Journey". Only had the car a couple months so not a huge amount done but progress is progress I guess. 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 2 weeks later...

Anyway, back to today...

Car passed. A few issues raised...

Near and offside anti roll bar links corroded but not serious. 

Read disc worn, pitted or scored but not serious. 

Im a little gutted with this one as the discs aren’t bad at all, they’ve just got a little surface rust due to be left in the air for 9 moths while I worked on the front and I didn’t clean them off on the way to the test as it’s just a two mile drive to the test centre. Never mind, will change these too.

E3B088BA-5B2A-4583-8841-457EB331533C.thumb.jpeg.f2d9be551e204bd4eb2bb9b3f0ad2d41.jpeg

 

It was also also noted that there was a little oil coming from the diff plug. Again will get this sorted.

B1C7BB9A-9109-4C0D-B214-0AD36E9EBE10.thumb.jpeg.9341a6b013f88083605a05ea6be37bfd.jpeg

 

All in all I’m very happy to have the car back on the road after 9 months tidying her up.

D37BAB2C-2747-4796-8241-CB4E05BFC0DE.thumb.jpeg.a4d654b2e6f6660a551a08d10c63c149.jpeg

  • Like 4
Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 2 months later...

So it’s been a few months since I updated this mainly because I’ve not been using her.

Shortly after the MOT the ABS light came on. After checking the ABS module it indicated that the O/S/F ABS sensor is playing up.

However the more pressing issue has been an intermittent dropping of cylinders 2 & 4. At first I thought this might be the PTU or coil pack connectors as the connectors had been replaced at some point. After undertaking a visual, voltage, earth and continuity check of the PTU and wiring to the connectors it seemed unlikely to be the PTU or wiring. I then moved onto the injectors. A quick resistance check found that injector 2 has an open circuit and 4 gave a very high reading.

So it would seem to make sense to replace all my injectors with the later style injectors now.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Have you checked for surface corrosion on the connectors (both plug and injector sides). It makes for a very good insulator and will give o/c and or high resistance.

The colour of the corrosion surface can be a metal colour (grey) and difficult to spot sometimes. Clean with very fine needle file and recheck resistance.

1632756191_IsaoSono300ZXZ32s30thcompactwhitebg.jpg.927186fb96ce93f9d57642837cfd17d2.jpg

Link to comment
Share on other sites

2 hours ago, AndrewG said:

Have you checked for surface corrosion on the connectors (both plug and injector sides). It makes for a very good insulator and will give o/c and or high resistance.

The colour of the corrosion surface can be a metal colour (grey) and difficult to spot sometimes. Clean with very fine needle file and recheck resistance.

Cheers Andrew, I’ll give that a go. ?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

7 hours ago, AndrewG said:

Have you checked for surface corrosion on the connectors (both plug and injector sides). It makes for a very good insulator and will give o/c and or high resistance.

The colour of the corrosion surface can be a metal colour (grey) and difficult to spot sometimes. Clean with very fine needle file and recheck resistance.

So I gave it as good a clean as I could with the injectors in place but unfortunately I couldn’t get to the contacts on injector 4 well enough to give them a good enough clean, there’s what looks like part of the fuel system above it. Any ideas if this is simple enough to remove?

Results from the clean were from 1230 ohms down to 23 ohms on injector 2 and an open circuit to 12M ohms on injector 4. I believe my target is 10-14 ohms. I’m not convinced that I could have cleaned injector 2 any better, it’s gleaming now.

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

44 minutes ago, AndrewG said:

If your readings are good then No. 2 is still out of range at 23Ω and No. 4 is gone.

I agree.

So now I need to look into new injectors. The plan for the car is to fit a +”95 harness, PTU, CAS and injectors. I simply can’t afford to do this all at once right now but would like to buy the injectors that fit into this build and use adaptors or splice in the appropriate connectors if possible.

What are the options and recommendations? Happy to go larger than standard.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

"Drop in" injectors are standard early style 370cc and 555cc (Nismo) pintle injectors. Later pintleless injectors ie 615cc and 740cc require adapater

kits and new electrical connectors as the style changed.

740cc injectors are the usual replacement option. JWT make the lowest profile C clamps which make it easier to remove/replace injectors once

the upper manifold is in place. If you go larger flow rates than stock 370cc  you will need to change the stock ECU EPROM to another with revised

fuel mapping tables. SpecialityZ are a good source of "off the shelf" EPROMs

https://www.specialtyz.com/300zx/jwt-injector-adapter-kit.html

https://www.specialtyz.com/300zx/fueling-ecu/sz-ecu-chips.html

1632756191_IsaoSono300ZXZ32s30thcompactwhitebg.jpg.927186fb96ce93f9d57642837cfd17d2.jpg

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 3 months later...

Well it’s been a while since I last updated this,  mainly because she developed a failed injector and rather than fix the issue I brought a RS6 to keep myself occupied.

Anyway today I started to remove the plenum to get to the injectors. I’m going to be carrying on with my restoration project as I go. I was wondering is it worth replacing the fuel damper and pressure regulator while I’m there or just refit what I have? 

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I’m nearly there I think with removing the Plenum. I struggling  with two pipes that run along either side of the plenum though. 

On the near side is a hard plastic pipe that runs from the lower middle edge to the cam cover.

DF080DD7-05ED-403F-865A-8659AEEFA3D6.thumb.jpeg.fd3218a1cb663fab8c81547f0da5fc04.jpeg

On the off side the hard plastic pipe runs from the lower middle edge and goes down low.

80F31914-2980-4BC1-8C9A-A6175A4D0360.thumb.jpeg.4980effc4187404fa96ff5116b65f71f.jpeg

 

What are these pipes for and how do I get them off?

 

Cheers,

Chris.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Those are your PCV valve hoses. Originally they are pliable rubber but go hard with age and are renewed when replacing the PCVs. This guide gives a couple

of hose removal tips.

http://www.ttzd.com/tech/pcvtech.html

These photos will give you a better idea of what you are dealing with.

https://www.pexcom.com.au/z32cms/e107_images/1994_engine_pics.pdf

 

Edited by AndrewG

1632756191_IsaoSono300ZXZ32s30thcompactwhitebg.jpg.927186fb96ce93f9d57642837cfd17d2.jpg

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Guest
Unfortunately, your content contains terms that we do not allow. Please edit your content to remove the highlighted words below.
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    • No registered users viewing this page.
×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

Terms of Use