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My daughter calls it Toothless the Dragon: My ‘95 TT Z


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Although the link below and discussion is for a Selin setup it does cover removing the T piece and why it makes a big difference.


"The reason dual pops work is that stock, the 2 sides are fighting for air in the tee, both sides are pulling from the same center

section causing the turbos to work much harder to suck air." Greg@SZ.


This seems to be the key and you can see the sort of gains that are being reported on dynos with the Selin setup.




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June 2016


With the brembos, disc and hub dropped off to a machinist I tackled a few of the smaller, cheaper jobs. First on the list was oil change. I’d run the engine in on Millers 10w40 CRO running in oil, changing after the first 300 miles for more of the same. At 600 miles I changed to a 10w40 mineral oil for 500 miles (1100 miles in total on the dyno!). Now it was time to switch to my chosen fully synthetic. Again, after a few conversations with Mitch I went with his recommendation.


I’d noticed during my top speed runs that oil temps were getting up to 115c or so, and even though I’d updated the oil cooler to a Stillen item I thought it best to have an oil that remained thermal stable and kept its viscousoty at higher temps (rather than becoming as thin as water) aswell as working at temps as low as I was likely to use the car in during UK winters, so a 20W60 fit the bill nicely


As you may have already noticed, my boot floor and tank lid were a little on the crusty side. I’d had a leak in the boot somewhere during its 2 years off the road which had popped in the spare wheel well. So out came the wire wheels and etching primer to make it look a bit tidier



The last little job was to get the front bumper back on. I knew I needed to do something with my side lights as I’d installed fog ducts, so I went down a fairly common path and converted the turning lights in the indicator cluster to side lights. Bit of a rewire later...



I’d noticed the bonnet wasn’t sitting as flush as it used to, so at some point it’s been jacked up on the radiator support (not by me I may add!) which has pushed things up a little. I’d also started thinking about the bigger picture for the bodywork side of things, whether just to get the defects I knew of sorted or to bite the bullet and go for a full glass out respray. With finances as they were, the repair defects was winning that arguement! It was nice to see it in one piece again though!



Edited by nickz32
Bit more explanation around oil choice
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Something else that’s been on my hit list for quite some time has be audio related. The “sound system” in my Z has been dire since day one, so I thought it was about time that I did something about it!


I managed to source a set of Bose speaker boxes from a mate of mine, banzai beakers, and set about removing the old Bose sub ohm speakers for something my head Unit could actually run.


I’m a bit like Fungalbumpkin himself and I like Alpine audio equipment. So a set of Alpine SPR60C 130W RMS component speakers went in the rear with some new acoustic packing, with the tweeters nestled away by the rear quarter windows (I’ll take a pic and add it to this thread when I next get chance, but it’s nice and subtle)



And a set of MB Quartz 10cm 100W RMSspeakers replaced the Bose 10cm in the front



Another leaf I took out of Funky’s book was an Alpine in-line amp

254C036E-D562-47CA-9FAC-E910409C75E3.jpg. A nice little solution to not wanting to mess around with an amp in the boot (I have other plans for the space under the false floor) And provides 45W RMS to all 4 corners, more than enough to provide a vast upgrade in acoustics to the three knackered stock sized speakers that this lot replaced!


And the resulting sound was..... crap. One of my closest friends works with AV equipment ALOT and he’s pretty convinced that the internal amp inside my old Alpine head Unit has seen its best days and given up the ghost. So a new version of my alpine head Unit is now on the shopping list!

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What can I say, I picked a very very lazy CNC machinist! I won’t got into the finer details, but after lots of tooing and froing and arguement, I FINALLY got a design for my brake brackets (a 7 month wait!!!)


The combo of Evo X brembos and 370Z discs did cause a slight issue in that there was only 7mm of space for a bracket to fit between the calipers and the mounting lugs in the hub... certainly not thick enough to last a 180mph plus braking situation in a 1600kg car! But I’d committed to buying the parts I had and pushed forward with the guys to engineer a solution to the problem that would be strong enough to take anything I could throw at it. And here it was




One sturdy bracket to be made from billet (I forget the grade, but it’s something like Alpan T56, but don’t quote me on that). The backer would sit behind the hub lugs and wrap around it making a very strong piece of engineering. The fitment was designed to be extremely snug against the hub lugs to share the load across the entire hub lug rather than just around the mounting hole. This would require the casting marks in the metal of the hub to be sanded down a smidge as their could have been very small casting differences between the Spare hub I supplied to them to those actually on my car, so s little bit of care and attention was needed to get the fit right. 12.1 tensile grade bolts would be used to secure the bracket.


A few days later a prototype was CNC’d out of a bit of hard wood they had laying around.



Which was then test fitted to the caliper



There needed to be a bit of an adjustment to the design as the support webbing on the rear of the caliper fouled the top edge of the mating sufrace of the bracket causing the caliper to tip forward away from the bracket. A 45 deg chamfer was added to the top of that surface to clear the webbing and it was time to test fit to the car




A couple of small adjustments were required to ease fitment, but otherwise the prototype was proven and the go ahead was given to make Version 2 of the bracket out of billet.....


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JULY!!!!!!!! 2017


Yes, flipping JULY. A whole 7 months to the day after the go ahead to make the real things I finally got some shiney bits of billet in my grubby mitts





Like a kid in a candy shop I whizzed over to the workshop and fitted them.




Happy bunny. Fitted a set of EBC BlueStuff NDX lads after some good reviews by a number of mates and the whole brake system was the flushed, refilled and bled with ATI SuperBlue (which oddly isn’t blue anymore)



I was hoping to brakes that feel like my wife’s BMW 4 series M-sport that has similar brembo 4 pots fronts/2 pot rears. Didn’t quite work out that way. I took her out for a spin and wow were they bitey! However once I’d bedded them in, they were a lot better. The bite is a bit to close to the top of the pedal for my liking, but there is absolutely no doubting the stopping power these have. Super impressed, but they still need work. Too little pedal effort is required to get them really stopping, which makes modulation of the pedal a little difficult. I’m not used to it, however I know if someone else drives it as it is, they’ll end up head butting the windscreen!


I’m now on the hunt for a new engineers/CNC machinist to make something for the rear brembos. I want to see if having the rear brembos on calms the biting point and lack of required pedal effort. If not, then I will probably look at down sizing the brake master cylinder. Muchos ponderings to be had!


Still, they look bad ass behind my wheels



Edited by nickz32
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It seems to a shame to interrupt this thread with a comment as you’re full steam ahead catching up - but I’m going to!


I have been following Nick’s build as best I can via Instagram and Facebook, but it was never really a documented journal like this to properly take in what is being done. I’m so glad I hassled you to get back on the club forums and post up a proper journal as it’s a pleasure to read and take in.


I know there’s still more to come and it gets better but this thread will be an awesome guide to many looking to upgrade every aspect of their pride and joy and an inspiration to get stuck in and try things!


It’s a bloody good achievement by all accounts sir and I can see this link being shared around the global community as part of the new brigade of tuning ethos for the Z32 that doesn’t require massive turbos and all top end. In my opinion, a 5-600hp Z32 with small turbos and buckets of torque like this will probably be the best all round street and fun track car out there. A Z with good throttle response and low down power with a fairly decent grunt all the way to redline is the way forward.

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And the resulting sound was..... crap. One of my closest friends works with AV equipment ALOT and he’s pretty convinced that the internal amp inside my old Alpine head Unit has seen its best days and given up the ghost. So a new version of my alpine head Unit is now on the shopping list!


In what way was the sound quality poor? For example poor imaging, frequency range, dynamics, distortion etc.


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Incredibly flat, no real clarity but no proper distortion. Even at low volume you could see the illumination of the headinit flickering when it was trying to drive the base and then if you turned the volume above 18 (which isn’t particularly loud) the head Unit shut itself down. We tested them on the amplifier we have at the workshop and they sounds a million times better

Edited by nickz32
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July 2017


With the car now fully mobile and driveable it MOT’d it for the first time in 4 years. It had a bit of an issue with its headlight aim but otherwise it flew through.


Another little proud moment for me was the result of the emissions testing. It goes without saying that I don’t have catalytic converters, yet it only produced 0.75% of Carbon Monoxide (upper limit is 3.5%).

That wasn’t the best bit...


Hydrocarbon reading of 63ppm (upper limit of 1200ppm). This car burns ZERO oil! Can’t beat quality machining. Another benefit to this is that burning oil lowers the knock limit of a combustion cycle. Therefore a lack of oil in the combustion cycle means I can get closer to the engines theoretical ignition advance limit before encountering knock....... wins all round!


I still hadn’t decided what I was going to do on the bodywork front, so I decided that I would take the car to a number of bodyshops to gauge opinions and prices in order to make an informed decision. I honestly had forgotten how much I enjoyed driving a Z. Even just pottering around it put a smile on my face. I resisted the urge to give it a boot full until I’d tested the fuel setup on the dyno, but even with the odd squeeze of the throttle it felt like a puppy wanting to be let off its lead, keen to let rip down the road. I will freely admit that, when it’s all tuned up and finished, I’m a little nervous as to what it will be like to drive. I’ve pretty much decided that next year I’m going to do a couple of Airfield based track days to reacquaint myself with my car and how it feels after all the changes I’ve made.


Anyway, the car sudden developed an electrical fault (which I posted another thread about). The speedo would intermittently die and the power steering would load up. Speedo converter was the likely culprit, so out came the dash



Something else I will freely admit, I SUCK at automotive electrics, I don’t know why but it’s something I’ve never managed to get a handle on. So I drafted in a mate who is very very very good with them and set about swapping it for another Unit. During the diagnoses state, we’d noticed that the Haltech was receiving a speed signal of about 11kmh when the car was stationary. So I chose a replacement converter that had the facility to send an unconverted signal back to the ECU. This meant both the Haltech and the power steering and hicas ecu’s saw a signal as Nissan intended rather one that had been altered. It appears that I’ve been driving around for all these years with the HICAS adjusting at vastly different speeds to what is intended. Once wired in, a quick check of the Haltech showed a stationary speed of 1kmh. A bit of recalibration will be required to get it bang on accurate, but I’ll save that for the dyno.


Annoyingly it doesn’t appear to have completely solved the problem. When I first start up the car and initially manoeuvre at slow speeds, the steering is nice and light as expected. Once up to speed it loads up nicely, but as I slow down again it stays loaded up, especially on right hand turns. Something deffinately isn’t right, but I know the car needed it’s geometry sorting again. Once everything is pointing back in the correct directions and angles, I’m going to have to go through the power steering system and make sure all the solenoids are behaving as expected etc.


Speaking of geometry, I was getting a little fed up with bloody rose jointed suspension components! The rear camber arms had a little bit of play that was coming from the rose joints. Time to get rid of them and the nasty driftworks arms that i had fitted many moons again. A bit of research around options for adjustable poly bushed arms and I pulled the pin on a set of these:



I’ve always rated White Line suspension components, and these are no exception. Such a shame they make so little for the Z32. I plan on replacing as many of my adjustable suspension components with bushed items to help get some of that silky Z32 ride quality back into the car. I’ve always felt that the Z is a GT car, a sporty one, but still a GT car. And that’s what I’m going to try and stick to when it comes to the chassis and interior aspects of the car. It needs to be comfortable for touring in, but capable with things get twisty and hairy.


To add to that interior feel I decided to get rid of my Veilside evolution gear knob. As much as I liked it, it was like changing gear with an icicle in the winter and a hot coal in the summer.


I’m similar to Joely, Andrew, Fungal and others in that I like the OEM+ look. While I don’t think my car will ever be an OEM+ car due to the extensive modifications, I take inspiration from the ethos around it. So I chose to go back to an OE gear know with red stitching



I plan on keeping the interior very close to stock, Bar the wheel and gauges, as I think Nissan did a cracking job. One day I’ll look at changing the materials on some of the surfaces, but that’s in the very very distant future!

Edited by nickz32
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While I don’t think my car will ever be an OEM+ car due to the extensive modifications, I take inspiration from the ethos around it.


As a subscribed member of the Z32 OEM+ membership council, I beg to differ.


Whilst your current spoiler renders you disbanded from the federation, details like that can be easily changed [emoji735]! The Stillen lip is an OEM quality product that lends itself wonderfully to the original aesthetics and doesn’t distract too much from the stock design [emoji736]. A modern OEM would see the power output of the VG30 increased to remain competitive within its market, so power upgrades are permitted within that category [emoji736]. The same guidelines apply for the suspension and whilst I do like your current wheels, I do look forward to a revival of the SSRs with an equally snug and aggressive fitment. [emoji736]


Application forms for the OEM+ super mega club can be found underneath Simon’s boot carpet, once filled in, he will need to carry out a visual assessment so I’d advise booking a Friday afternoon appointment to catch him in a good mood.

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Subscribed member???? Don’t you mean Supreme Emperor!


I dunno mate, ruffling around in Simons carpet is something that requires serious consideration and copious amounts of alcohol.... I know where he hangs out!!!


Oooooooh I do miss my SSR’s. I must check to see if they clear my brembos without spacers on. I took this pic just after I sourced the brakes, but can’t remember if I had my big hubcentric spacers on when I took it...... I do remember clearance being toight.... toight as a toiger





***Edit*** For those of you don’t havent seen or don’t remember, I have a set of SSR Indy 500’s which are pretty rare. Unfortunately a crack in the road around Lake Bala slightly buckled all 4 wheels and the barrels aren’t repairable. I’m hoping to rebuild them with new barrels one day because.... well... they look fapping awesome


Edited by nickz32
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September 2017


After establishing what options I had with the bodywork side of things, I decided to bite the bullet and go for a full glass out panels off respray. It seemed like a false economy to spend £1500 on a “blow over” to sort the various bits that needed doing and having a proper respray a few years in the future.


I ended up choosing a bodyshop fairly local to me who works on prestige cars. Further more the owner of the business has owned and repaired several Z’s since the mid to late 90’s. His knowledge of how these cars come apart meant less time was wasted figuring out how certain parts come off and how to get them aligned again properly once painted.


To go along with the new paint I bought all new roof mouldings, door mouldings, rear window seals, center targa bar, clips, grommets etc etc. If I was going to do it, I wanted the car to be compatible to some of the nicest cars in this club.


The car was booked in for mid November and I started hammering the overtime at work.


As ever, another small problem emerged. While I was confident in my work around the fuel system, I could very occasionally smell fuel around the plenum. There was no way on Earth I was going to let a small fuel leak cause the car to burst into flames and ruin everything I worked for.


So over a few weeks, the plenum came off and everything was triple checked. And yet, no sign of any leaks, no torn seals, no weeping connectors. The smell was fairly localised around cylinders 1/3/5, but I just could not trace it. The final test was to place some UV dye in the fuel, run the car and then check the fuel system with a UV light.... nothing. Not even a dot of UV ink.


I spoke to Jaffa at length about the issue as I knew his whole fuel system wasn’t dissimilar to mine. One theory was because I had used nitrile rubber braided hose rather than Teflon braided hose, the smell could be emanating from the hoses themselves. But I didn’t want to take the risk of a fuel fire and the smell seemed too localised for that theory to entirely fit the bill. Further more, I was getting thoroughly cheesed off having to keep removing the plenum to get access to the fuel system. Secondly, after the promising performance in the dyno I knew I may end up getting close to the safe limits of the NISMO 740cc injectors I had fitted during the rebuild. Only one solution fitted the bill.





The latest version of the WinFactory top feed fuel rail mates with Injector Dynamics 1050X (1065cc) top feed injectors. By fitting this I reduced the amount of joins in my fuel system between the feed line to the regulator from 9 to 2, vastly reducing the likelihood of leaks. It added simplicity to the system of one inlet and one outlet on the rail itself, it further raised my safety net in the fuel delivery department, and finally meant I didn’t have to remove the plenum any time I wanted to work on the fuelling system.


A bit of modification was required to get the rail to fit. As my car has the late design plenum, it has a few extra lugs and mounting points that weren’t used until after 1996. So I had to cut, grind and repolish those areas. Further clearance was needed on the “bridge” that connects the throttle pulleys to the plenum over cylinder 1. (Pics taken from WinFactorys installation guide)




A bit more faffery wiring up new pig tails for the injectors and she was in and back together again



To finalise things I decided a bit more thermal protection was required for the fuel lines, so I wrapped the lines that ran in the engine bay with suitable protection



It was an expensive bit of kit, but the smell of fuel appears to have completely vanished. The Injector details on the map were changed to suit and she was running again (the joys of Volumetric Efficiency based mapping means changes such as injectors don’t require a full remap)


I had moved house in August, so for the first time in a while I brought the old girl home.


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November 2017


Dropped the Z off at the bodyshop



After a week or so I popped over to grab a couple of parts I needed to do some bits to. One of my headlights had a dirty projector lens one of my rear light clusters was cracked.


They had already started the prep work, focussing in the rear arches. They had been rolled and flared in a bit of a rush for Vmax to fit the new Varrstoen wheels.



Because the flare is effectively 3 skins of metal, it’s been formed as close to perfect as possible and then filler will have out the dips from the spot welds on the rolled lip. The bit of filler at the leading edge of the arch is an old repair that I could see through the paintwork since I’ve owned the car.


Once they removed the glass I took the rear quarter glass and rear screen home to remove the tint. I’d had enough of trying to reverse at night through limo tint glass! The quarter window tint came off without too much trouble




The rear screen on other hand was a pig of a job. No matter how much heat we used the glue wouldn’t release the tint without taking sections of the heated screen with it. So I employed the help of the Mrs and her steady hand and we set about repairing the elements


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22 December 2017


The final piece of the fuelling setup turned up this week. A Turbosmart FPR2000



Yes, it’s complete overkill with its 2000 BHP handling capacity, however there are reasons for choosing it. Firstly with the addition of the WinFactory fuel rail much entire fuel system was -8 sized (I.D of about 12.6mm) all apart from the Tomei FPR, which was 3/8NPT (around 6mm ID). While it would affect pressure that much, it’s a bit of a bottle neck for flow. The Turbosmart FPR uses -8AN ports, so my entire system is now equalised.


Secondly, as you can see in the data log there is oscillation in then fuel pressure when on load. This maybe caused by a lack of fuel dampener in my set up. This can effect fuel injector performance by causing inconsistency in how the Injector delivers fuel. After a bit of research I found this article by Adaptronic ECU’s. They too had an issue with fuel pulse oscillation with Injector Dynamics injectors. The article also compared some of the after market FPR’s as well as a factory item from an RX7.




***spolier alert*** the Turbosmart came out as the most accurate and consistent FPR


Yesterday I popped to the car and fitted the new unit. I need to adapt the mounting bracket as it currently forces the FPR to sit in a way that causes a clearance issue with the fuel pressure sensor.



The car has changed a fair bit since I last saw it, virtually ready for primer. Best news is that no unexpected tin worm or gremlins have been discovered. Can’t wait to see it painted!




And there we are, bang up to date. Obviously posts won’t come quite so thick and fast from now on. I still have a few things in the pipeline that will really change the look of the car.


Bring on 2018!

Edited by nickz32
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Since th car has been in the bodyshop I’ve been umming and aahing about going back to completely stock rear lights.


I’ve been on the 99 spec “conversion” for a long time but I’ve never been that impressed with how the diffuser sheeting sits in the lens, with gaps across the bottom of where the diffuser is meant to sit flush against the grey frame.


I’ve never been a fan of the pinstripe lines in the proper 99 specs, although I do like the later centre panel with the red 300ZX text, I may have to purchase one in the future. To be honest I never particularly disliked the stock lights. Sooooo......


....from a collection of spare bits I had purchased over the years I rebuilt the rear lights with the original orange diffusers. I think having a black car I get away with it more than other colours, so while it does “age” the rear of the car a little, I don’t think the whole car suffers as a result. I’ll keep the clear side repeaters and front indicators as they are.




Once I’ve given the lenses a good going over with the DA I’m sure they’ll look perfect

Edited by nickz32
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I’ve been on the 99 spec “conversion” for a long time but I’ve never been that impressed with how the diffuser sheeting sits in the lens, with gaps across the bottom of where the diffuser is meant to sit flush against the grey frame.


Probably prism type sheeting was used way back when and to attach to the frame or insert flexible silicone is best to use, my guess is hot glue was used throughout to attach, hence it coming away when the seasons change.


The 'grey' frame should really of been sprayed in silver at the very least to mimic the 99 look, chrome spray can be used instead, as can chrome wrap but it's fiddly to do/time consuming and can bubble in stressed places over time.


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