bantambunny Posted April 9, 2018 Share Posted April 9, 2018 Afternoon all! It's been a while (about 3 years i think!) :) Hope you're all keeping well. Well the poor old slicktop died on me nearly 4 years ago, down to 3 cylinders then stopped. Realised the cat had collapsed so fitted a replacement exhaust section (with cats drilled through), blocked off the recirc pipes, removed AIV and rerouted vacuum tubes Car started but failed to rev and had missfire on rev on right bank Used ecutalk, right hand O2 sensor all over the place Finally got round to removed said O2 sensor, found new one was threaded so finally this weekend managed to get time to clean and straighten the thread, got it in. Car started after a bit of churning, idles fine from cold Then cut out Lots of churning, managed to get it to restart then cut out again Finally when warm would just turn over and over, no coughs etc like the fuel was cut off Left it overnight, tried again the next day, started, idled fine, revved fine, again got warm after a couple of mins and then coughed and died. Just spins with no coughs when slightly warm. I've double and triple checked the vacuum lines are going to the correct parts of the engine but no luck. I'm on the verge of junking the engine and fitting an NA just to get it back on the road after 4 years of it being dead(!) Any ideas guys? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gaz 300 Posted April 9, 2018 Share Posted April 9, 2018 Welcome back mate its been a while. Check this thread out to see if any of it helps. https://www.300zx.co.uk/forums/showthread.php?171223-300zx-idle-revving-issues&highlight=engine+cuts+warm Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Funkysi Posted April 9, 2018 Share Posted April 9, 2018 Hey Nick. :) If your car has been sat for a while, go through every connector thoroughly. All coil pack connectors, all injector connectors and the MAF connector. Once they're all clean if anything is misfiring try to go through an isolation process of swapping coil packs and spark plugs around. Also check the ampage of the injectors using a multimeter. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Alic Posted April 9, 2018 Share Posted April 9, 2018 Can't give specific advice but check if it's fuel or spark that you are lacking when hot. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AndrewG Posted April 9, 2018 Share Posted April 9, 2018 (edited) How old is the fuel in the tank? You might also check that the fuel filter is not blocked. This is the FSM diagnostics for engine stalling when hot: EC-87-88.pdf Edited April 9, 2018 by AndrewG Quote She's so fine, there's no tellin' where the money went - Simply irresistible. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nickz32 Posted April 9, 2018 Share Posted April 9, 2018 Hey Buddy, good to see you floating around still. I’d say back to basics on this one. When you say it cuts out, does it misfire or anything or does it simply drop revs until stall? What do the plugs look like? Sooty? Wet? Normal? (Checking if you have good spark) When cold does it run on all 6? When it does run warm, does it run on all 6? Bubbles in the coolant when it’s running/sweet smelling exhaust fumes or any other symptoms of HG failure? Fuel supply- is it getting what it should? Pop of the return hose and hook a hose up into petrol container. Put 12v to the pump for 60 seconds and measure the amount of fuel delivered. Multiply by 60 and you’ll get your l/ph (should be around 250lph for a OE pump from memory). Anything less, you’ve got a supply problem, so look at the filter then the pump Fuel Pressure- see if you can get a fuel pressure gauge from somewhere. Pressure should be around 34psicat idle with the vac hose connected to the FPR, 43.5psi with it connected. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Joely P Posted April 9, 2018 Share Posted April 9, 2018 Welcome back to the fold Nick, great to see you getting the old girl back on the road. Don’t jump to the conclusion of junking it just yet until you have isolated the source of the defect. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
phutumsch Posted April 9, 2018 Share Posted April 9, 2018 You can take on board what advice you are given but i'll say you need to do a compression test, my guess is it'll be 'down' and i believe this to be your starting issue when it's warm/hot, of course i hope i am wrong and it turns out your engine is strong. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Joely P Posted April 9, 2018 Share Posted April 9, 2018 You can take on board what advice you are given but i'll say you need to do a compression test, my guess is it'll be 'down' and i believe this to be your starting issue when it's warm/hot, of course i hope i am wrong and it turns out your engine is strong. Going straight for the kill shot Andy?! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bantambunny Posted April 9, 2018 Author Share Posted April 9, 2018 Cheers guys, good to see some familiar names still knocking around on here :D Will have another look over the weekend but thanks for the ideas, i'll let you know how it goes :) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bantambunny Posted April 9, 2018 Author Share Posted April 9, 2018 Fuel in the tank is 4 years old but did chuck some new petrol in the other day. As i say it runs when the car's cold but then doesn't take more than a couple of mins before it suddenly stops. The only thing i could think of that kicks in is the valve on the back of the plenum but it's been that long since i worked on a zed I can't remember most of the tricks. Was going to pop the fuel line off on the intake, pull the fuse, crank it to take th pressure off then check i have pressure when it's warm. The only horrible thing I did find is a mild hissing from the driver's side when it cuts out but could be anything internally or externally it was hard to tell. Anyway back to the basics, plugs out, etc and i'll have to raid the old silver na zed at my dad's for parts to test with and see if any of those make a difference I did pop a screwdriver to the injectors and they were all clicking when it was running. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
veilside01702 Posted April 10, 2018 Share Posted April 10, 2018 Have you got the old style PTU on her? Just an idea..... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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