Jump to content

Electric HICAS - whats’s involved/missing?


Recommended Posts

Evenin’ all! My import ‘96TT would originally have had the later electric HICAS, but when I took her to Jimmer for her first check-up one of the first things he pointed out was the lock-out bar the previous owner had fitted. From that and the lowered suspension I suspect she might have drifted in her younger days.

Anyway I’ve recently wondered exactly what might have been removed when deleting electric HICAS, and whether it might be practical to re-instate the system. But I have no idea what the electric set-up involved. Clearly the PAS hydraulics to the rear will be absent, and replaced with some form of actuators, but does anyone have access to a diagram or description of what components made up the system? That might enable me to determine whether the whole thing has been stripped out, or if most of it is still there but disconnected. I do know that if I re-insert a fuse into the HICAS slot in the fuse box I don’t get a warning light, but I haven’t checked whether somebody has just removed the bulb!

Any information gratefully received, including if anybody out there HAS working electric HICAS and can say “it’s amazing, do it”, “it’s a terrible idea, forget it”, or “great idea but you’ll never find the parts”.

Thanks in advance!

Link to post
Share on other sites

These are the pages from the '96 FSM for the Electric HICAS. It is likely that just the Actuator was removed (to fit the lock out bar) leaving

the rest of the system intact.

ST 38-81.pdf

An example of the Actutator:

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Nissan-300ZX-Turbo-Rear-Hicas-Active-Power-Steering-Rack-Gear-Box-Z32-5570540P00-/232556594661

  • Like 1

1632756191_IsaoSono300ZXZ32s30thcompactwhitebg.jpg.927186fb96ce93f9d57642837cfd17d2.jpg

Link to post
Share on other sites

My zed is a 96 and I can confirm it's a one piece actuator that just unplugs. 

 

Unless the previous owner snipped the cables it should just be a matter of plugging it back in. 

 

Although for it to work properly the sensor in the steering wheel still needs to be operational too. 

  • Like 1
Link to post
Share on other sites

Managed to find time to crawl underneath today, and found the (hopefully) attached image. Looks like all the connectors are still there, so hopefully it’s plug and play!

That said, a) I don’t have the facilities to raise the car enough for the amount of spanner-wielding this would need, and b) it’s going to need Conzult to make sure it’s calibrated, so I might see if Jimmer is up for doing the actual plugging and playing post-lockdown 🙂

Thanks for the help chaps!

 

E2F8B93E-2AE6-417B-BB15-34FE73E2F786.jpeg

  • Like 1
Link to post
Share on other sites

Do you like how the HICAS system feels/drives? 
The reason why so many deleted this system, not just from the Z32 but the R chassis models it was also fitted to, it wasn’t about drifting. 

Link to post
Share on other sites
28 minutes ago, JaiKai said:

I removed mine because it felt like the back end was drifting out when turning.

 

Wasn't a good feeling if your not used to it.

Personally I felt it felt like an old leaf sprung car, how the body weight shifts over the spring on the horizontal before the back goes out. Very disconcerting. 

Link to post
Share on other sites
5 hours ago, Stephen said:

Do you like how the HICAS system feels/drives? 
The reason why so many deleted this system, not just from the Z32 but the R chassis models it was also fitted to, it wasn’t about drifting. 

Personally found the later electronic system much more natural to drive than the earlier hydraulic system. What they did to the calibration I’m not sure, but it’s deffinately a better system

  • Like 2
Link to post
Share on other sites

I used to have a 1990 Zed with the hydraulic system and always enjoyed it, but to be honest it’s so long since that car shuffled off this mortal coil (2003) I can’t really compare it with how the current car drives. I’m working on the theory that Nissan engineers probably knew what they were doing. If I end up hating it (unlikely I suspect) I can always pull the fuse, and I do own a lockout bar :)

  • Like 1
Link to post
Share on other sites
  • 1 month later...

So as not to leave a story unfinished, just a quick update to say all is now installed and working. Jimmer (top bloke among top blokes) had a good rack from a ‘95 car, and after confirming all the electronics were there he’s swapped it in and worked all the alignment and calibration magic. Just on the drive back from Powerzed I think I can feel it’s dialled out some of the initial understeer on quick direction changes, but need a few more miles to really get the feel of what’s different. Certainly feels nice and planted though. Thanks again to all for the help and advice, and as usual a hearty recommendation for Jimmer.

  • Like 2
  • Love 1
Link to post
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    No registered users viewing this page.

×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

Terms of Use