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CrashCourse

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CrashCourse last won the day on September 11

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  • Location
    Dunfermline
  • Interests
    The Zed, PC FPS, my family.
  • Occupation
    A man from the Motor Trade
  • Region
    Scotland

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  1. Thanks for the replies, I've now found a new "Dyno guy" who knows his way about Zeds, Skylines, Stageas.....etc. His first recommendation was for me me have a Nistune board fitted, that will enable more accurate mapping to optimise the power of the rebuilt engine. I've also had a word with Horsham Developments, re the fitting of said Nistune board and hope to have that done in the next few weeks. I'm not looking for silly power, just a safe, efficient map that has to be better than the generic chip that is installed at the moment.
  2. Yeah. I'm sure that there's a wee fan in there.
  3. Rather than an new dyno operator, I think that he just needs enlightened on how to dyno a 300zx with an old "slush" box. He's mainly used to having Scoobys on the rollers and is quite competent - so some practical advice would be nice.........please.
  4. Hi guys, Had my 1993 300ZX TT Automatic on the rolling road today and the Dyno operator could not get a good figure out of the session as the auto box would change up before peak power was reached. How is the Zed auto successfully dyno'd, any info would be much appreciated. Thanks - Andy
  5. Okay, I've been posting about the engine cutting out on my Zed, I really, really thought that it was some esoteric electrical problem. To that effect, I'd replaced the ancient Meta alarm immobiliser with a nice new one and also replaced my old series 2 PTU and harness. Both items were worthy of replacement, as they were a fair age...............but they did not stop the engine from cutting out! In the end, all it took was the press of a button, the Auto button on the heater control pod....FFS. The engine was stalling whilst coasting downhill and approaching roundabouts (it's an auto-box), the revs were simply dying so much that the engine was stalling. Pushing the "Auto" button has artificially raised the revs, to take account of the non-working aircon, it's a quick fix that will have to do until I investigate the FICD & AAV setup. Honestly, old age doesn't come by itself. Andy
  6. Forgot to say, the engine has recently been overhauled.
  7. Okay, replacement PTU fitted and I still have the same problem...... The car will still idle away for any given length of time, but drive it for a mile and the engine stops and the dash lights come on! It restarts instantly, then not much further down the road, it stops again. I've replaced the old Meta alarm control unit (plug and play kit using the existing wiring) and the PTU. It's surely electrical, would any wayward relays cause this? Again, ideas and suggestions welcome. Andy
  8. Yeah, I have a replacement PTU ordered, here's hoping that that sorts it out.
  9. Thanks Sayers, I have a series 2 PTU fitted and relocated to under the nose cone and also have a spare series 1 PTU. I'll try and swap them over, see if that helps but surely the EML would flag up a faulty PTU? Probably not near you, I'm in Dunfermline 🙂
  10. Following on from my previous post about this new problem with my Zed. My Zed engine stops after driving for about a mile, it restarts and runs for about another mile and then does it again. I had thought that the old Meta alarm/immobiliser was at fault (it had been giving problems),so I bought and installed(eventually) a plug & play replacement (HPA EVO) alarm/immobiliser..... No change, the engine stops after about a mile of driving, no warning, no stuttering, just engine stop and all lights on dash. Shift into Park position (auto) and it starts right away, no hesitation - a mile down the road it does it again. ECU Talk throws up error 34, knock sensor, that's all. If it was the PTU, surely the EML or a code would flag up? The car will idle away for as long as you want, no problems - but when you start driving, then the problem arises... As it only happens when driving, would a faulty inhibitor switch cause the problem? Any help or thoughts are much appreciated. Andy
  11. Thanks again Andrew, I bought and installed(eventually) a plug & play replacement (HPA EVO) alarm/immobiliser..... No change, the engine stops after about a mile of driving, no warning, no stuttering, just engine stop and all lights on dash. Shift into Park position (auto) and it starts right away, no hesitation - a mile down the road it does it again. ECU Talk throws up error 34, knock sensor, that's all. If it was the PTU, surely the EML or a code would flag up? The car will idle away for as long as you want, no problems - but when you start driving, then the problem arises... As it only happens when driving, would a faulty inhibitor switch the problem? Any help or thoughts are much appreciated. Andy
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