Stephen

Shouldn’t have any issues with it starting in the cold. Gary lots of NI plates in the rest of the U.K., often referred to as “dateless” plates. Put it on Range Rover and your neighbour won’t know it’s 10 years old, if that sort of thing appeals to your insecurities 😉

I don’t work on white goods for a living but it’s not too far out my day job. I’ve fixed a few things over the years as they break at home. I always find myself taking them apart and thinking they’re badly designed. When the utility room fridge (kept bait and bulk stuff in it) went pop on the breaker one evening I isolated it and had a look. It turned out that the condenser has a drip tray on top that the condensation leaks onto, the idea being the heat of it evaporates the water. Now condensate is corrosive and the evaporation dish is steel, you can now guess why it had tripped out. I assu

It’s probably just the Berroca Tony.

Agreed. There’s elements of it I like, I don’t think the piss yellow colour helps.

The wheels are on wrong.

At the end of the day it’s about getting it clean, tidy and corrosion resistant. Few brush strokes are preferable to rust, a utilitarian job.

My Stillen ones had the same level of corrosion. I wire wheeled them and chassis black. Keep meaning to pop them off and get them powder coated.

If the biting point of the clutch is very low then adjust it. No one wants the biting point down there. You shouldn’t have any issues with the absence of the Vacuum tanks, some people have reported it shortens the life of the clutch booster... seen no evidence of this though, mines been this way for five years, probably longer and has done a few thousand miles that way without issue. As have a number of peoples I know. The soft brake peddle is unlikely to be to do with the recent changes unless something has been done in error to the vacuum assist of the brake booster.

10mm spacers are a problem. As slip ons. They’re too thick for the stock wheel studs, replacement extended rear wheel studs (which are different to the front) are a pain to find. No one makes proper hubcentric with the studs in the spacer in 10mm, in fact quite a few companies don’t make 15s. If the wheel only started fouling the arms after lowering the car then it’s almost certainly a geometry issue. Everything changes when you lower a car and the more you lower it the more thus becomes problematic. I wouldn’t be surprised if the car is now toe out at the rear.

Video of the car by Hoonigan.

Not had an easy life this one, glad it’s in the right hands.

Should be printed on the rear face of the wheel, usually on the spoke. Also worth thinking about your geometry. My HICAS is long gone and the kit I have reduces this issue.

That’s a tyre size you need to know the wheel size including the offset. Either of the first two options could work with the spacer more likely.

Right, I’ve got a late spec NA long block split and ready for a clean and rebuild sat here. I was keeping it for myself to rebuild as a fully forged TT as it’s a perfect candidate, but it’s not going to happen any time soon and to be honest I want to free up the space so I’m going to sell it. I will start a proper listing with pictures etc but I wanted to gauge interest on the format of its sale, ie either to sell as a long block or short block and heads separated etc. What’s here; A late spec VG30DE short block, this has the NA oil squirters you’d want for forged pistons and is set u

Cheers guys.