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Scarecrow last won the day on March 15

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  1. Job done! After disconnecting the control rod from the motor there was still no life so the gears are either totally jammed or it’s burnt out, so I didn’t bother trying to manoeuvre it out. Just left it disconnected and locked the side link in the demist/footwell position. For reference if you ever have to do the job, all you actually need to remove is the panel under the steering wheel and the two pieces of duct behind it, plus the instrument console glare shield if you want to get to the screw that holds the motor in. By far the hardest part is getting the ducts back into place, but wel
  2. I also found this: https://forums.nicoclub.com/z32-heater-vent-control-motor-question-t593996.html Sounds like a fix for a different (simpler) failure mode where the gear spindle had gone. Will just have to see what falls out of the casing. What are the odds it’s the easy to fix one?!?
  3. Wow. I had no idea there were so many wiper arms in there! Pity you can’t get stainless replacement ones like the ones I found to replace the crumbling door lock actuator cams.
  4. Expert advice from Jimmer is that the gears in the mode door motor have almost certainly fragged themselves through old age. It always did make a horrible noise trying to get into defrost, I guess that was the death rattle. The motor seems to be unavailable anywhere, so it looks like I’ll be moving the rods round by hand and fixing them in defrost/footwell position. Once the current monsoon finishes, that is…
  5. It’s a red herring. I’ve confirmed I have located the mode control motor and it’s connector, and the connector is firmly in place. But the motor equally firmly refuses to do anything. I think either the motor is dead, the control amp is faulty, or there is a break in the loom. I can’t see how to get access to the motor or amp without taking the entire dash out though.
  6. No idea what it is, but one thing I do know is it’s not anything I disconnected when I took the cluster out, so it’s either fallen out during the process or it’s always been hanging there. It’s got one of the press-in clips on the side so I can’t see how it could fall out. I think I can see the wiring connectors to the mode door motor, just trying to get fingers to them to check for security. Really hoping there isn’t a wire broken somewhere inside the loom 😞
  7. That connector was down behind the cluster while the cluster and all the pod connectors were still plugged in. There’s nowhere for it to go in either pod, and it’s mot long enough to reach the lighting pod. I suppose it could be an alternative connector for the auto version of the aircon pod? It just seems suspicious that after disturbing the wiring around the cluster I have mode doors not working and a cable disconnected!
  8. Possible progress. Following the loom around the instruments (ie where I was messing around replacing a bulb yesterday) I found this hanging. Looks like it could be “Intermediate Connector M49” in the HVAC loom, which seems to be vent related. Now I just need to find where it’s supposed to go. Access is a nightmare! if anybody recognises this and it’s not related please shout! Abandoning till tomorrow morning now.
  9. AndrewG you, sir, are a gentleman and a scholar. Those values match what I’m getting. As it happens I have just found this online (should be a photo attached!) It passes step A with flying colours, so the switch unit appears to be ok. Which means the problem is probably with the wiring between the switch connector and the amp connector. Deep joy. Looks like I have some ferreting around behind the dash in my immediate future…
  10. Well from what I can tell the switch seems to be behaving as expected from the circuit diagram (although it’s had to be sure given none of the resistors are labelled with values!). But two things strike me as a little odd: 1) If I unplug the pod when the ignition is on a motor whirs somewhere, and when I short out pins 3 and 9 sometimes it whirs again, not sure if this is a sign of life from the air mix motor or not; 2) When I turn the switch to full demist, the recirculation flap opens regardless of the position of the switch, and the fact that the recirc light stays on. But it does
  11. Thanks both. I’ve stripped down the pod and cleaned everything up, no difference. I can hear the flap moving for recirculation and for the heater control, but the vents stay on dash only. I’ll dig into that wiring diagram now and see if I can find the culprit. If I can get at least some air into the demist vents I’ll be happy!
  12. I’ve got the later, manual air distribution controls, which now seem to be stuck on dash only. Ever since I had the car all positions have worked except full demist, which just clicked so I guess a rod is jammed or broken. But now I get no noise from the dash at all when I turn it. As I had to take the pod off yesterday to replace a warning lamp bulb in the dash (Major PITA!) I suspect I’ve disturbed something in the switch or wiring (although to be honest I have no idea when I last moved the switch off demist/foot wells so it could have been toast for a while. Does anybody have a pi
  13. So as not to leave a story unfinished, just a quick update to say all is now installed and working. Jimmer (top bloke among top blokes) had a good rack from a ‘95 car, and after confirming all the electronics were there he’s swapped it in and worked all the alignment and calibration magic. Just on the drive back from Powerzed I think I can feel it’s dialled out some of the initial understeer on quick direction changes, but need a few more miles to really get the feel of what’s different. Certainly feels nice and planted though. Thanks again to all for the help and advice, and as usual a hearty
  14. I used to have a 1990 Zed with the hydraulic system and always enjoyed it, but to be honest it’s so long since that car shuffled off this mortal coil (2003) I can’t really compare it with how the current car drives. I’m working on the theory that Nissan engineers probably knew what they were doing. If I end up hating it (unlikely I suspect) I can always pull the fuse, and I do own a lockout bar :)
  15. Managed to find time to crawl underneath today, and found the (hopefully) attached image. Looks like all the connectors are still there, so hopefully it’s plug and play! That said, a) I don’t have the facilities to raise the car enough for the amount of spanner-wielding this would need, and b) it’s going to need Conzult to make sure it’s calibrated, so I might see if Jimmer is up for doing the actual plugging and playing post-lockdown 🙂 Thanks for the help chaps!
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