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tandyn300

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tandyn300 last won the day on November 8 2015

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About tandyn300

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  • Location
    portsmouth
  • Region
    South Central

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  1. Time Left: 3 days and 20 hours

    • For Sale
    • Used

    I have a new in-box Nissan Ignition Coil part no. B2448-30P03 available and also a used Hanshin MCP-400 Ignition Coil (similar to image), both were /are standard fit items for the Z32. Any interest please pm me. Thanks, Ray Offer of this item to be withdrawn from this site. Mod to action please. Thank you.

    NO VALUE SPECIFIED

  2. Time Left: 3 days and 20 hours

    • For Sale
    • Used

    I have available a serviceable good condition Hazard Warning Switch similar to that shown in the image . Anyone interested please pm me. Thanks Offer of this item to be withdrawn from this site. Mod to action please. Thank you.

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  3. Time Left: 3 days and 20 hours

    • For Sale
    • Used

    I have available L&R OEM Fairlady front mats in good condition. Any interest pm me pls. Offer of this item to be withdrawn from this site. Mod to action please. Thank you.

    NO VALUE SPECIFIED

  4. This advert is COMPLETED!

    • For Sale
    • Used

    FREE Five non-staggered standard pattern JDM wheels. Four are a L&R set which are powder coated (in shadow chrome) and fitted with inflated tyres. The fourth item is a wheel only in standard paint finish. All wheels are good in unmarked, undinged condition and available free to anyone who wants and can collect or arrange collection from Portsmouth, Hants. Anyone interested pls pm me. The wheels are now spoken for and no longer available. Mod to note please.

    NO VALUE SPECIFIED

  5. Anything to do with maintenance of the PAS system can get messy quickly. To drain the upper part of the system use a syringe with a tube on the end to get as far down the source and return hoses as you can. You will need a couple of syringes as trans fluid and the piston rubbers don't get along! It is important to try to avoid letting air into the HICAS solenoid and so before drawing the reservoir fluid, pinch-off the hoses to/from the solenoid so as to retain fluid in that part of the hydraulic circuit. Isolating in this way should eliminate the need to bleed the rear power cylinder at the ba
  6. For the hardy types who still have hydraulic HICAS in their machines... Ocassionally on a run, the HICAS warning light came on and stayed on. Steering function remained normal and the fluid level was ok and on a re-start, after say five minutes, light operation returned to normal - for a while. Conzult provided no clues either. The HICAS sensor is basicaly a magnetically actuated reed switch which is located at the lower end of the tube attached to the bottom of the reservoir cap. The metallic sleeve at the centre of the float is a magnet, which if maintained above the level of the reed s
  7. For the hardy types who still have hydraulic HICAS in their machines... Ocassionally on a run, the HICAS warning light came on and stayed on. Steering function remained normal and the fluid level was ok and on a re-start, after say five minutes, light operation returned to normal - for a while. Conzult provided no clues either. The HICAS sensor is basicaly a magnetically actuated reed switch which is located at the lower end of the tube attached to the bottom of the reservoir cap. The metallic sleeve at the centre of the float is a magnet, which if maintained above the level of the reed s
  8. Repeating Stephens' question, have you checked the integrity of the vac circuit? If things improve with higher revs, but worsen with lower, this could indicate a leak. If you have not do so already, try disconnecting vac pipes one at time, smallest ones first (at plenum end). A no change result would identify a problem. And don't forget the larger and significant pipe at the back of the balance tube. BTW I use tie-wraps to secure the ends of the small/medium sized vac pipes.
  9. I have Conzult on a netbook which would quickly identify individual problem cylinder(s). Vacuum leaks can cause idling problems and so a quick check of all connections for tightness would eliminate this as a contributory factor (affecting all cylinders). Moving up the more involved scale are the under bonnet electrical connections. Large temperature variation tend to promote contact corrosion and there are plenty of candidates on the Zed. If individual 'faulty' cylinders can be identified (e.g. by Conzult) then if gently waggling the connectors on top of the injectors causes a change in idling
  10. Please advise who is managing the 300zx attendance list for Simply Japanese . Thanks
  11. OK. That's another SWB Slicktop to go on the list please.
  12. I've recently fitted a Bosch also with no problems. BUT repeated flattening of the battery will Roger it capacity-wise. The main problem relates to extended periods of low or no charging. Even mickey mouse current drains can become significant over a couple of weeks. As a quick short term test - charge the battery - leave about four days disconnected from the car and then reconnect and try a start. If no-go replace battery. Then with or without batt replacement suggest you check the standing current load on the battery with everything 'off'- To do this disconnect the cable to the battery +ve t
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